Most of us live our lives with certain expectations.
We expect the light to come on when we turn on the switch. We expect our cars to start when we press the accelerator.
So when we press the foot control of our sewing machines, we expect the sewing machine to work.
Sometimes, we think of your sewing machine as a friend, or in a sense, a real person. We talk to him. we touch it We hear it. Sometimes it may seem that our friend is affected by an infection or disease. This is especially true when we push power and very little happens.
When you press the foot control, does your sewing machine waver? Does it grow a bit? Does it spin very slowly or maybe not at all?
If so, then your sewing machine may have the dreaded Sewing Machine Motor Fatigue Syndrome.
You can determine if this is your problem fairly quickly with some basic tests.
You set up your sewing machine and it’s ready to sew, but when you press the foot pedal, the machine barely moves. It’s like the machine is tired from a long hard summer. It doesn’t matter how hard you press the foot control; no matter how much power you put in; the sewing machine just drags.
The two most common sources of such a problem are the possibility of the sewing machine mechanism jamming and motor problems.
To check for binding, turn the flywheel by hand and feel for undue resistance. If the machine is stiff, your problem may be the mechanism. If the machine moves freely, it is probably a problem with the motor.
The AC motor in your sewing machine or mounted behind the head of your machine will often collect debris inside it. This debris can consist of partially burned carbon deposits, dust and dirt, and old lubricants. Little by little, this waste takes its toll on the operation of the engine.
You don’t have to be an engine expert to understand how debris deposits can make it increasingly difficult for your engine to perform as expected. Over time, the motor loses its ability to function properly and may even stop spinning.
One solution to this problem is to remove the deposits by burning them. By running the engine at full throttle for several minutes, it is often possible to do just that.
Follow this procedure: In the center of the steering wheel is a brake that causes the machine to turn when you turn the steering wheel. Release to allow the steering wheel to move freely without turning the machine. Hold down the power pedal by hand or use a clamp or weight to hold it down. The motor should start to turn slowly. If not, carefully turn the flywheel while applying electricity to the motor to help it turn. Once the engine is spinning, keep it spinning at full speed for about five minutes. Let it cool down and try it again.
Wait for the machine while you have it running. Beware of extreme heat, sparks, or smoke from the engine.
Engine burning is usually very effective at burning off old carbon deposits, debris and dirt. Essentially, you are heating up the engine to melt and burn the debris. In the process, the engine may become overheated, excessive smoke may begin to come out of the engine, or sparks may fly. Be very careful not to let these become troublesome. Turn off whenever you feel the burn getting out of control.
In some cases, the burning of the engine does not work. The damage to the engine is too extensive. In such cases, you can remove the motor brushes and replace them. You can disassemble the motor casing and clean the dirt from the contact points and the armature. If you do, be careful. The use of solvents in electrical appliances can be extremely dangerous. Before applying electricity to any motor, make sure it is 100% dry and free of anything that could catch fire, smolder or cause damage.
You can usually fix sewing machine motor fatigue syndrome with a ten-minute motor burnout or service.
