Grading includes anything from raking the surface to level a lawn or leveling a slight slope to make a deck to larger operations where a bulldozer carves through dirt and moves tons of dirt. The homeowner may be concerned about one or more aspects of a grading problem. Usually one of these is water flow control. An area of lawn so level that water collects and remains for some time should be sloped (leveled) to some point for surface drainage, especially if you have garden water features such as outdoor fountains or waterfalls that dissipate much more moisture.
This is less critical if the soil is sandy. If there is no possibility of leveling it in one direction, the area could be leveled with a slight drop towards the center and where a collecting container connects to a culvert or other outlet, perhaps near a road or path. If not, a dry well is dug. This is a hole three to four feet deep and equally wide. Large stones or rocks are thrown at the bottom, smaller stones at the top, then gravel, several inches of ash or rammed ash, and finally dirt. A line, rope level, or carpenter’s level, placed on the straight edge of a piece of wood, is used to determine the required pitch.
Allow an eighth inch drop for each foot of running. At twenty-five feet, this would be a three-and-one-eighth inch drop from level. Set levels at various distances and drive with wooden pegs at the high and low spots. Each peg is marked to indicate the finished surface or grade. A slope away from the house and was not corrected during construction presents a problem. This can be uncomfortable to move around if the area is used a lot. Only a deck or level area near the house can remedy the failure. The extent of the operation will naturally depend on the site and its slope.
A level area six to ten feet wide could be established and then leveled to meet the original rating. A low ground cover or shrubbery may be sufficient to support it. Most often, a retaining wall will be needed to support the deck or area level. The cheapest type of retaining wall is a dry wall. This can be made of rock, boulders, or cut stone. No cement is used. The ground is rammed behind and between the stones. Pockets are left and plants are placed. These will grow up the face of the wall. This could be an interesting and beautiful feature, along with the addition of perhaps some large fountains, garden statues, or a waterfall in the courtyard.
It is a form of rock gardening without the maintenance that a rock garden needs. As in all constructions, the height of the wall and the mass of soil to support dictates the resistance of the wall. A dry wall, because it is not supported by concrete, is tilted toward the shore. Carved stone makes beautiful walls. Some are embedded in mortar; others are built as self-supporting walls. Self-supporting walls do not have a mortar or cement foundation. They usually start below grade level. The largest stones are laid as a foundation; other large stones are embedded with smaller ones.
Steps
Like the walls, the steps are constructed of various materials. If they are part of the retaining wall, they must be built with the same materials to give unity. Narrow steps should be avoided when building on a bench or wall. They spoil the proportion and give a feeling of insecurity. Also, when built between permanent outdoor fountains, wall mounted fountains, or garden statues, they can appear misplaced. The height of the risers, 4 to 5 inches, is more comfortable.
The tread or deck should be no shorter than 11 to 14 inches. Cement bricks, stone, tile and poured concrete are often used. Wood risers and gravel steps are inexpensive steps. Rough stones of various thicknesses form picturesque steps in a garden. They give a feeling of strength and solidity. They also fit well in a rock garden setting. Old railroad ties are useful for steps or ramps. They are held in place by stakes driven into the ground and driven into ties, or secured by a similar method.
